Mountain Roads to the Sea: From Miyama to Takahama

For those staying overnight in Kayabuki no Sato, an early morning walk through the empty village offers a rare chance to take in the thatch-roofed houses before any day visitors arrive. Once the parking lot closes, only overnight guests remain, making it feel like the town belongs entirely to you.

Rolling Out Toward the Coast

This stage of the journey leaves the mountains behind and heads toward the Japan Sea coast, with the goal of reaching Takahama, a small fishing town on Wakasa Bay - part of a designated Quasi-National Park. Though the direct route is only about 50km, there are options to extend the ride, either with side trips or by exploring local roads and peninsulas along the way.

Rather than head directly toward Kanazawa, this variation detours slightly northwest. The idea is to trade a day of coastal highway riding for a quieter approach, allowing for a longer and more enjoyable ride along beach roads the following day.

Climb and Coast Through Countryside

The first section involves a 13km climb, but the road is wide, well-paved, and almost completely empty. With traffic diverted to the larger road that runs parallel to the train line, this peaceful stretch passes small hamlets, rice fields, and foothills. Even the long tunnel at the summit is stress-free, as cars are rare.

There's little commercial infrastructure, but one quirky stop worth noting is the Koyomi Museum of Calendar - an unexpected roadside museum that turns out to be oddly memorable.

Mid-descent, there's an option to veer off onto a smaller road over another 8km / 300m mountain pass. It's a short detour that rewards with sweeping downhill curves, open views, and a sense of remoteness. Eventually, the terrain opens to wide fields, and the scent of sea air begins to drift in before the ocean even comes into view.

Arriving in Takahama

The town of Takahama makes for a welcoming overnight stop. While accommodations here are simple - often just repurposed fishing homes - the setting across from the beach adds charm. Local inns may not always offer meals, but that's hardly an issue, as fresh seafood is easily found nearby.

In this version of the route, the host may recommend - and even offer a ride to - a local sushi spot. One example is this local bar (link placeholder if you had one). Rural sushi shops like this often come with warm welcomes and surprise "service" items - dishes that arrive between courses without ever appearing on the bill.

Optional Side Trip: Lighthouse and Seaside Shrines

Before checking in, there's time to stretch the legs with a short ride and hike to a local lighthouse and seaside shrine, a peaceful detour that offers rocky coastline views and a break from the saddle.

Afterward, a moonlit stroll back along the beach rounds out a perfect evening - and quite possibly leads to the softest futon of the trip.