Diary of a Pilgrim on the Nakasendo

Kyoto, Kan'ei 12 (1635), Third Month, 6th Day

The journey begins.

The morning air is cool as I take my first steps beyond Kyoto's eastern gate. My sandals press against the well-worn road, the city's bustle fading behind me. I look ahead, knowing the road is long - nearly thirty ri (120 kilometers) before I reach the heart of Kiso, where the true mountain path begins.

I have packed only what is necessary, for a pilgrim carries no burdens but those in his heart.

What I Carry

• A woven straw hat (kasa) – To shield me from both sun and rain.
• A simple robe and undergarments – My traveling kimono is light but durable. I have one spare, which I wear in the evenings while washing the other.
• Straw sandals (waraji) – They will wear out quickly on the stone paths. I have an extra pair tied to my pack.
• A walking stick (kongo-zue) – Not only to steady my steps but also to mark my journey, as pilgrims inscribe prayers upon their staffs.
• A small bundle of coins – Just enough to stay at roadside inns when I can afford it, or to buy food when needed.

Food for the Journey

I carry little, for I must eat as travelers do - along the way, at inns and tea houses. However, I have brought:

• Dried rice and millet cakes (hōshii & dango) – Enough for two days.
• Pickled plums (umeboshi) – They stave off hunger and keep my body strong.
• A gourd of water – Filled from the well before I left. Streams are plentiful, but I must be mindful of sickness.
• A small pouch of roasted soybeans – A gift from Sayo, meant to sustain me between villages.

How Far Will I Walk Today?

I hope to reach Otsu by nightfall, the great post town by Lake Biwa. It is not far - just over ten ri (40 kilometers) - but a journey must begin with patience. I will not rush, for the road is unforgiving to those who do.

There is a tea house ahead where the road bends. The others in my group walk ahead, and I must not linger. The trail stretches long before me, but I take comfort in knowing that each step eastward is a step toward prayer, a step toward home.